Dressing for Shakespeare: the Elizabethan Male by C. David Claudon

In The Merchant of Venice, Portia says of Falconbridge, the young baron from England : "How oddly he is suited! I think he bought his doublet in Italy, his round hose in France, his bonnet in Germany, and his behavior elsewhere." (I.ii.68-70)

Here Alencon wears a typical English Elizabeth costume, inspired by garments from various countries:

• A peascod doublet...The characteristic shape of the peascod-bellied doublet was that of a pot belly. Three things were needed to achieve the effect, according to L. Barton (1961): a stiff tight under-lining, buckram to make the protruding shape, and "bombast" (padding) to hold it out. (p. 214). The doublet has a peplum (skirt). Small wings surround the armhole and hide the points that were used to tie on the sleeves.

• Over the doublet is a jerkin. The jerkin was often worn over a doublet and was usually tight. This one has buttons to close the front, but because of the peascod doublet, it cannot be closed.

• Venetians cover the upper thigh. According to Norris (1938), they were originally called "upper stocks" or "canions," when they came into use about 1570. (p. 543.) Venetians were hose which came from Venice and could be padded.

• Over the venetians are a "roll" or "Pansid Slop" The Pansid Slops consist of a series of panes of one color and under padding of another color.

• Hose...His silk hose were the rage before the end of the 16th century. Note the designs on the sides of the hose. Silk scarves act as a garter for each leg.

• Shoes without heels

• A band (ruff)...The ruff was a long strip of material which was attached on one edge to a band which would be tied around the neck and under clothing. The ruff was heavily starched and then a an iron poking stick or setting iron was used to create the characteristic flutes.

• Barton, L. (1961, rev.) Historic costume for the stage. Boston: Walter H. Baker, Co.

• Norris, H. (1938). Costume & fashion: vol. 3: The Tudors (book II: 1547-1603). New York: E.P. Dutton & Co., Inc.

All pictures copyright 1998, C. David Claudon. This web page was created by C. David Claudon, June 16, 1998. Last update, October 16, 2003 .

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